Bluewater Coastal Cruising: Bahia Santa Maria to Cabo San Lucas

Wednesday November 7, 2012

We are at sea again in the midst of our shortest leg of the Baja Ha-ha having departed Bahia Santa Maria last night enroute to Cabo San Lucas, an approx 180 nautical mile journey. We searched in vain for a fishing spot (the 3-spot) identified on a paper chart (from the 1940's, so not necessarily accurate) as well as the electronic chart on the GPS (in a nearby location) described as 3 fathoms (approx 19 feet) and over 20 miles offshore. We did find relatively shallow water 300 foot deep area surrounded by 2,000 feet deep water but nothing shallower and no fish. Andrew/Mark/Kevin described whale sightings. Andrew saw a full breach, Kevin saw spouting, Mark saw splashes. In the early afternoon, we stopped the boat to swim in crystal clear blue water that was 2,150 feet deep, 28 miles off the coast - a true highlight of the whole trip. Just knowing it was that deep added sheer excitement. During the early night watch, Kevin and Liz were entertained by more than 10 playful dolphins off our bow. Later in the middle of the night, Lawrence and Liz encountered another big ship nearby. On Andrew's shift we ran a gas tank dry just as the winds picked up so we sailed (instead of motor-sailing). We still had about 25 gallons left out of the 40+ we had when we left San Diego, and refilled the tank from the spares in the morning. Before dawn, we finally saw the big dipper for which we had been looking - it did not rise until late at night.

Mark and Amanda with fishing boatlines

Andrew/Amanda/Kevin enjoying warmer waters

Lawrence and Andrew snorkeling around in the open sea

Amanda coming up our swim ladder

Mark/Amanda swimming

Mark reading Fancy Nancy

Lawrence/Kevin/Andrew lounging

Gorgeous sunset

Amanda capturing a gorgeous sunset

Thursday November 8, 2012

This morning we sailed along the Baja Peninsula with the Cape in view. The dolphins delighted us by swimming along our bow. We saw giant sea turtles too. Mid-morning we arrived off Cabo San Lucas ahead of most of the fleet (because we had departed early). It quickly became apparent that there were not enough slips for everyone and we were low on the pecking order (slip assignments were made in order of Baja Ha-Ha sign-ups). We were eventually thrilled that we had to continue on to Marina Puerto Los Cabos in San Jose del Cabo. Though it was an additional 25 nautical miles (which added 5 more hours to our journey) we were happy with the exceptionally nice quiet marina. Not long after arriving, I learned from Amanda the results of the US election (she heard it from Lawrence and Andrew). Suffice it to say, Obama's election allowed us all to drink at the bar for various reasons. We all needed stiff drinks after a long journey and news of this sort. We enjoyed showers and sleep but the few mosquitos around were quite annoying. We understand that Baja was unusually lush and green throughout our trip because of Hurricane Paul, and this also increased the number of bugs. The Marina helped arrange a rental car (delivered to the marina parking lot) and the tortilla soup at the bar was awe-inspiring.

View of the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula

Dolphin

Another friendly dolphin

Amanda on the bow after successfully calling many dolphins to the boat

Andrew and Lawrence and dolphins

Andrew/Lawrence/Amanda and dolphins

Amanda's private show from her pulpit

Giant sea turtle

Fun of many sorts

Hair salon

Mark/Andrew/Kevin/Lawrence

Heading east from Cabo San Lucas

Destination made - the bar at Marina Puerto Los Cabos in San Jose del Cabo

Friday November 9, 2012

We all enjoyed actual sleep but we were up early in Marina Puerto Los Cabos. Liz/Mark/Amanda drove to town for breakfast while the others returned to the marina bar/restaurant. Liz and Amanda thoroughly enjoyed our dolphin Encounter program at the Dolphin Discovery center, mere steps from the marina. We all gave the boat a good cleaning then headed for the Lavanderia in town to drop off our laundry (great service!) and tourist shopping. Then we piled into the rental van and drove the 25 miles back to Cabo San Lucas for the Baja Ha-Ha farewell beach party. We all split up and were rattled (to varying degrees) by the Las Vegas - like atmosphere of Cabo San Lucas. It was congested/over-crowded/commercialized/touristy/loud, and while the people-watching was interesting (particularly the participants in the ongoing sport-fishing tournament), it was not very appealing for a stay of more than a few hours all told. By the end of the day we actually found the beach party which was at the end of a LONG walk. Amanda was able to play, swim and say goodbye to her friend Sophia which was a fitting end to this crazy organized cruisers rally. After a group dinner at the Baja Cantina, we drove back to our (more appreciated) quiet marina for more sleep (and more bug bites).