Saturday, November 10, 2012

Bahia Santa Maria to Cabo San Lucas


Wednesday November 7, 2012

We are at sea again in the midst of our shortest leg of the Baja Ha-ha having departed Bahia Santa Maria last night enroute to Cabo San Lucas, an approx 180 nautical mile journey. We searched in vain for a fishing spot (the 3-spot) identified on a paper chart (from the 1940's, so not necessarily accurate) as well as the electronic chart on the GPS (in a nearby location) described as 3 fathoms (approx 19 feet) and over 20 miles offshore. We did find relatively shallow water 300 foot deep area surrounded by 2,000 feet deep water but nothing shallower and no fish. Andrew/Mark/Kevin described whale sightings. Andrew saw a full breach, Kevin saw spouting, Mark saw splashes. In the early afternoon, we stopped the boat to swim in crystal clear blue water that was 2,150 feet deep, 28 miles off the coast - a true highlight of the whole trip. Just knowing it was that deep added sheer excitement. During the early night watch, Kevin and Liz were entertained by more than 10 playful dolphins off our bow. Later in the middle of the night, Lawrence and Liz encountered another big ship nearby. On Andrew's shift we ran a gas tank dry just as the winds picked up so we sailed (instead of motor-sailing). We still had about 25 gallons left out of the 40+ we had when we left San Diego, and refilled the tank from the spares in the morning.  Before dawn, we finally saw the big dipper for which we had been looking - it did not rise until late at night.

Mark and Amanda with fishing boatlines
Andrew/Amanda/Kevin enjoying warmer waters
Lawrence and Andrew snorkeling around in the open sea
Amanda coming up our swim ladder
Mark/Amanda swimming
Mark reading Fancy Nancy
Lawrence/Kevin/Andrew lounging

Gorgeous sunset

Amanda capturing a gorgeous sunset


Thursday November 8, 2012

This morning we sailed along the Baja Peninsula with the Cape in view. The dolphins delighted us by swimming along our bow. We saw giant sea turtles too. Mid-morning we arrived off Cabo San Lucas ahead of most of the fleet (because we had departed early). It quickly became apparent that there were not enough slips for everyone and we were low on the pecking order (slip assignments were made in order of Baja Ha-Ha sign-ups). We were eventually thrilled that we had to continue on to Marina Puerto Los Cabos in San Jose del Cabo. Though it was an additional 25 nautical miles (which added 5 more hours to our journey) we were happy with the exceptionally nice quiet marina. Not long after arriving, I learned from Amanda the results of the US election (she heard it from Lawrence and Andrew). Suffice it to say, Obama's election allowed us all to drink at the bar for various reasons. We all needed stiff drinks after a long journey and news of this sort. We enjoyed showers and sleep but the few mosquitos around were quite annoying.  We understand that Baja was unusually lush and green throughout our trip because of Hurricane Paul, and this also increased the number of bugs.  The Marina helped arrange a rental car (delivered to the marina parking lot) and the tortilla soup at the bar was awe-inspiring.  

View of the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula
Dolphin
Another friendly dolphin


Amanda on the bow after successfully calling many dolphins to the boat
Andrew and Lawrence and dolphins
Andrew/Lawrence/Amanda and dolphins
Amanda's private show from her pulpit

Giant sea turtle
Fun of many sorts
Hair salon
Mark/Andrew/Kevin/Lawrence
Heading east from Cabo San Lucas

Destination made - the bar at Marina Puerto Los Cabos in San Jose del Cabo


Friday November 9, 2012

We all enjoyed actual sleep but we were up early in Marina Puerto Los Cabos. Liz/Mark/Amanda drove to town for breakfast while the others returned to the marina bar/restaurant. Liz and Amanda thoroughly enjoyed our dolphin Encounter program at the Dolphin Discovery center, mere steps from the marina. We all gave the boat a good cleaning then headed for the Lavanderia in town to drop off our laundry (great service!) and tourist shopping. Then we piled into the rental van and drove the 25 miles back to Cabo San Lucas for the Baja Ha-Ha farewell beach party. We all split up and were rattled (to varying degrees) by the Las Vegas - like atmosphere of Cabo San Lucas. It was congested/over-crowded/commercialized/touristy/loud, and while the people-watching was interesting (particularly the participants in the ongoing sport-fishing tournament), it was not very appealing for a stay of more than a few hours all told. By the end of the day we actually found the beach party which was at the end of a LONG walk. Amanda was able to play, swim and say goodbye to her friend Sophia which was a fitting end to this crazy organized cruisers rally. After a group dinner at the Baja Cantina, we drove back to our (more appreciated) quiet marina for more sleep (and more bug bites).

Liz/Ariel/Amanda at Dolphin Discovery in San Jose del Cabo
Amanda holding Ariel
Amanda dancing
Trainer Amanda
Our group seeing Ariel's teeth
Bye Ariel!
Marina Puerto Los Cabos in San Jose del Cabo

Exploring San Jose del Cabo
Cheese and meats
In the van enroute West toward Cabo San Lucas
Andrew/Lawrence/Kevin/Amanda Cabo San Lucas
Amanda at the beach in Cabo San Lucas
Amanda with Mark - Beach party ahead
Kevin and the sunset in a panga



Tuesday, November 6, 2012

Bahia Tortugas to Bahia Santa Maria



Friday November 2, 2012

We woke to a beautiful day in Bahia Tortugas. Lawrence/Andrew/Kevin took the dinghy to town and Mark/liz/Amanda took a panga ride to the potluck beach party. We brought burgers and deviled eggs to share. Amanda enjoyed playing with her new friend Sophia and her brother Harlan. We enjoyed $3 cold beers and people watching. Kevin joined us and walked along the beach river to contemplate the water source. The Mexican military patrolled the perimeter in full uniforms with weapons. The kids enjoyed the silly games led by Richard, the head honcho. Our return panga ride to BLUEWATER coincided with Lawrence/Andrew's return. For the next leg of the trip we decided to add an extra fishing stop so chose to depart this evening instead of getting up early to depart with the fleet in the morning. With a 240 nautical mile leg ahead of us, we departed Turtle Bay about 7:30pm into the night and started another 24 hour watch rotation.  Lawrence and I had the late night / early morning shift and gybed 3 times to avoid a large frigate bearing down on us. We have many theories about the stealth nature of the encounter but it was not comfortable when it turned off all its lights and was only visible on radar.

Amanda and Mark in a panga to beach party
Liz in the panga
Deviled eggs (our potluck item)
Beach Party - Bahia Tortugas (Turtle Bay)
Amanda digging holes
Voila!


View of Kevin walking toward party in red shorts near dinghy's
Amanda and Sophia playing on the beach
Kevin, the river and military police
Beach party talent show observers


Richard leading kid games
Lots of kids, Amanda in black
Amanda and Sophia digging
Sophia and Amanda playing
View toward anchorage from beach party

Lawrence/Andrew prepping for departure
Departure time




Saturday November 3, 2012

The morning greeted us with the beautiful open ocean for another day at sea. Congestion struck a few of us, particularly Mark. In the morning we explored the fishing around Isla Ascension and had good luck. While I was keeping track, we caught (2) calico bass, (2) barracuda, and (3) Benito. Then we tempted fate and swam near a huge bunch of sea lions.  Lawrence met a particularly ardent and amorous member of the bunch, but eventually convinced the sea lion that they should just be good friends.  Later, we enjoyed more fish tacos before Kevin hooked into our first dorado. As day turned into night, we saw zillions of stars and the Milky Way clearly before the moon rose. We also started feeling warmer breezes. Again day turned into night. On our midnight shift, Mark and I watched an albatross hovering over the mast.
Calico Bass
More fish
Another Calico Bass
Waving to the sea lions
Sea lions


Lawrence's sea lions
Stretching sea lion


Liz and Amanda - in wet suits
Andrew and BLUEWATER
Amanda lounging
Andrew snorkeling

Lawrence working

Kevin's bonito
Kevin's dorado
Amanda stretching
Another beautiful sunset at sea


Sunday November 4, 2012

Night turned into day again and we are still sailing and heading toward Bahia Santa Maria. Andrew made fish tacos for breakfast. Today we are 50 miles off the coast and Amanda is writing a poem with Andrew in the hot hot sun. Lawrence caught a big yellowfin tuna which was fun. We had burgers for dinner. Amanda asked when we'll see Grandma and Grandpa again (about 2 weeks!). We continued sailing into the night and anchored in Bahia Santa Maria around midnight in a stiff 15 knot wind.
Chef Lawrence making pancakes on the barbie


Amanda extending her birthday for weeks (pancakes)


Lawrence's big yellowfin tuna
Joshing
Reading

Sun setting over the ocean again
More reading
Captain Lawrence
2 skippers and an orange sky


Monday November 5, 2012

We woke up in Bahia Santa Maria and started our day with pancakes and oatmeal. Early on we took the dinghy and surfboard to shore. We all explored the rocky landscape. Amanda got to play on a beach and take a hike through butterfly canyon. A fun day but we went to bed early and it was blowing 20-25 knots at night in the anchorage.


Amanda playing in her cabin
Good morning Daddy!
Bahia Santa Maria
Beauty everywhere
View of the anchorage from the cliffs
Lawrence and Andrew snorkeling on left, BLUEWATER on right
View of Mark and Amanda on the beach from the cliff
Butterfly canyon - Mark, Amanda, Liz
Mark swimming (checking the anchor) beyond Amanda
Liz/Amanda/Mark and the setting sun
It keeps getting oranger
View of other boats (mast lights) and the moon with the wind blowing 20-25 knots in Santa Maria anchorage at night



Tuesday November 6, 2012

Another day in Bahia Santa Maria. This time we took a Panga ashore to attend a different type of beach party. Some locals went to great lengths to truck in supplies and prepare us a fabulous meal. We paid $15 each for a dinner consisting of grilled marlin, rice shrimp salad and crackers. They also had cold beer for sale. Skipper Mark met with the San Carlos Port Captain to finalize our immigration documents for us and our boat. Amanda enjoyed boogie boarding and Lawrence and Kevin enjoyed some surfing on a long reef break. Amanda enjoyed the beach and then once again we were off. We departed into the night at 6pm on our last leg of the Baja Ha-ha, bound for Cabo San Lucas.
Morning dinghy ride to.....
...Profligate, the Baja Ha-Ha Mothership
Return to BLUEWATER
Pangas on the beach, Bahia Santa Maria

Raw marlin fish
Cooked marlin
Bahia Santa Maria beach party
Chef at Bahia Santa Maria beach party
Kids at the Bahia Santa Maria beach party
Amanda boogie boarding
Afternoon swim
Amanda coming up our swim ladder
Dad duty


Here is a link to a 2-1/2 minute video of a panga ride to Bahia Santa Maria, beach party, and dolphins swimming along our bow http://youtu.be/hcPHKtccerg