Lawrence decided to return north to Mazatlán. Sister Liz joined Lawrence on Bluewater. Leg 20 consisted of 3 destinations labeled Leg 20a, Leg 20b and Leg 20c.
Monday April 4, 2022
La Cruz Inn, La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, Nayarit, México
Lawrence and Gloria and Gloria's Mom were enjoying La Cruz Inn mere steps from La Cruz Marina where Bluewater was docked.
...Meanwhile, Liz couldn't resist and bought a one-way ticket and arrived Puerto Vallarta this morning...
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Liz on UA Flight #1212 SFO-PVR
8:40am to 2:22pm (3hr 42 min flight)
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| Approaching Puerto Vallarta (PVR) |
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| BIG arrows in the Aeropuerto |
Arrived 2:22pm PVR time = 12:22pm SF time.I loved the Big arrows in the Aeropuerto!
First thing after Immigration control - exchanged money. Current rate was approx 20 pesos per $1. I retrieved 3,000 $MXN pesos from an atm (about $150 USD with a fee of 174 pesos).
3:50pm in a taxi!
Paid 1,000 pesos for a taxi to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle.
Arrived La Cruz de Huanacaxtle 4:30pm and met Lawrence and Gloria in a park across the street from La Cruz Inn near La Cruz Marina. Walked to Bluewater in marina and back to La Cruz Inn.
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| Met Lawrence and Gloria in a park in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle |
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| I'm in México! Liz, Lawrence, Gloria walking toward Bluewater |
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| Lawrence dinghy'd off to get fuel |
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The fuel is pink and later it expanded
(with temperature?) |
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Liz and Gloria and La Cruz Inn from interior patio
Every room has an outdoor kitchen (cocina)! |
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| Lawrence in the outdoor cocina at La Cruz Inn |
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Lawrence on left, Gloria/Gloria on right
Walking to pharmacy for Covid test (req'd for US entry) |
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| Lawrence and I were marveling at a man on the upper level of the Car Wash who was doing construction work by banging on plywood ABOVE HIS HEAD |
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| Cascada restaurant on left; Gloria/Gloria walking ahead on right still walking toward pharmacy |
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| Lawrence above |
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| Gloria and her Mom Gloria |
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Liz/Lawrence at Cascada
with a view of the ocean behind us |
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Liz, Gloria, Gloria, Lawrence dining at Cascada
We watched the March Madness basketball final with N Carolina (8) up by 15 at halftime but lost to Kansas (1) |
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| Tacos: beef and chicken |
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| Parroquia de la Santa Cruz de Huanacaxtle Catholic Church nextdoor to La Cruz Inn |
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| Bluewater in La Cruz Marina around 11pm |
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| Liz in window: La Cruz de Huanacaxtle (la ˈkɾus̬ ðe wanaˈkakstle) |
Gloria/Gloria stayed at La Cruz Inn;
Lawrence/Liz stayed on Bluewater; Shrimp are crackling, a few mosquitoes are active
Tuesday April 5, 2022
La Cruz Marina, Bahía Banderas, Nayarit, México
Lawrence/Liz listened to morning cruisers net
from Bluewater
where we heard:
Moray eel notice! Stunning article on sea snakes, venemous 2 or 3 ft.
Paradise village beach closed; 1 eel reported dead on beach in La Cruz. Yesterday morning Lawrence saw 6 dead all washed up at low tide.
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Moray eel washed up dead on beach
Photo by Lawrence yesterday |
Hola,Gloria and her Mom departed PVR today. Lawrence/Liz decided to get a good night sleep and depart north for San Blas in the morning (Wed 4/6).
Liz
Wednesday April 6, 2022
La Cruz Marina, Bahía Banderas, Nayarit, México
Leg 20aDeparture Time: 0600 local time Wednesday April 6, 2022
Departure from: La Cruz Marina, Bahía de Banderas, Nayarit, México (near Puerto Vallarta)
2 souls aboard
Lawrence Kerver
Liz Barrish
Destination: San Blas, México
Distance to Destination: Approx 65nm
Arrived: approx 7pm local (Had a 1 hr time change enroute) so 14 hrs total
Duration: aprox 14 hours
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| Leg 20a: La Cruz Marina to San Blas |
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| Pre-departure view of La Cruz Marina from Bluewater at 5:45am |
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| Bluewater's instruments pre-departure |
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| Lawrence departing |
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| Anchorage outside of marina |
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| Inky blackness to starboard |
Departed 0600 from La Cruz Marina lit up with lights into inky blackness. Saw a cruise ship, bioluminescence, stars with partial cloud cover. Temperature is pleasant.
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| Bluewater departing |
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Lawrence reviewing waypoints
on his iPad |
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| iPad waypoints |
7:20am starting to get light
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| Sunrise! |
We saw birds, small schools of tuna, turtles, small clear jellyfish with single red dot (impossible to photograph) some Jellyfish 4-somes, tiny schools of fish, Krill. Ocean was flat as a pancake mostly with a small roll. The sky and ocean continually change.
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| 8:30am |
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| 9:30am |
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Lawrence and the
pink fuel that expanded
in the 12 gallon capacity tank |
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| Skipper Lawrence 11am |
Video: Minor roll to the seas with music:
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| Liz 11am |
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| Super glassy seas |
Videos: Nothing much - just short clips of a minor roll to the seas and us (Lawrence & Liz) plus Motoring with just the main and music
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| Sandía (watermelon) |
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| Hard to get a view of the whole mainsail |
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| Turtle approx 10:50am |
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| Turtle |
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| Turtle closer up |
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| Lawrence scanning the horizon and seas from forward starboard pulpit 11:30am |
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| Another turtle sighting 11:40am |
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| Lawrence with a turtle to starboard |
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| Another mainsail photo |
Turtles are everywhere but mostly visible because birds sit on them. Of course every time I got my camera out, the birds flew away. Here is a video of a turtle we passed around 1:30pm:
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| Lawrence rescuing a turtle from fishing line around 1:50pm |
1:30pm (iphone just changed time zone from 2:30pm). Tracker tracked 8-1/2hrs so far. Eel! Saw light colored eel, 3 to 5 ft underwater.
2:25pm wind from the south southwest, 9 to 12 knots; put the jib out, going 5.5kts
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Around 2:30pm we got some wind from the south!!!
Wind around 9-12kts, Bluewater going 5.5kts |
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| Sailor Lawrence |
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| Bluewater's instruments |
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| We're sailing now! |
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| Yes, you wish you were here! It's nothing short of spectacular!!! |
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| Fishboil visible in water; Trash fires can be seen burning along coastline |
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I tried to take a short panorama but the rolling
waves created an interesting effect |
We read everything there was to read about entering San Blas Channel but were still shocked to see breaking waves on BOTH sides of the entrance. Here is a video of some of what we were seeing:
Saw fish boils, fish prey jumping, flying fish enroute.
Approaching bar entrance. Breaking surf waves surrounded the entrance and a giant dredger filled most of the port entrance. Fishermen in pangas - so familiar with it - blasted thru the margins. Lawrence successfully navigated the area at low tide; Bluewater recorded depth as low as 2-1/2 feet.
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Narrow entrance to San Blas in a WIDE channel; Lawrence followed the panga on the left;
the panga on the right is zipping out the channel where the waves were breaking moments ago |
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| Dredging vessel in the channel entrance |
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| Pangas to the left.... |
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...Pangas to the right
Green and red channel markers ahead |
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| We waved, they waved and vice versa |
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| Bluewater's instruments |
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| Channel markers seemingly out of place added to the intrigue |
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| San Blas fishing vessels |
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| San Blas fishing pangas |
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| More San Blas fishing vessels |
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| Mexican navy ship (presumably) in San Blas |
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Bluewater's instruments show depth at 3.9ft
/ 4.6ft but we saw depth as low as 2-1/2ft!!!!
We were concerned but committed! |
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| Bluewater on the fuel dock at sunset |
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Lawrence & Liz at Sunset
Marina behind us |
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| Wicked sunset and a dirt road |
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We walked around town and backtracked back to
Wala Wala Restaurant & Grill,
the open door on the left side of the street |
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Liz at Wala Wala;
Pedro (our server) treated us well! |
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Lawrence had a burger;
Liz had Mahi Mahi that was divine |
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A small carnival arrived and was set up at night
and families arrived and enjoyed |
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Bluewater lookin good at
the fuel dock, San Blas |
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Lawrence and his new friend:
Chenche the marina cat |
Bluewater and crew Safe & Sound at the San Blas fuel dock
We departed La Cruz marina at 6am. Motored for 8-1/2 hrs on one engine with mainsail up into a light wind but directly on the nose. Got some wind from the south southwest and sailed a beam reach in 10 knots of wind with main and jib and no engines for 5-1/2 hrs.
Arrived around 7pm local (Had a 1 hr time change enroute) so 14 hrs total.
Walked thru town, had a nice dinner, tied up to fuel dock which opens at 9am. Hoping to depart soon thereafter tomorrow.
If we go to Isla Isabel tomorrow we might not be able to report.
So much more but sleepy now!
Liz
Thurday April 7, 2022
San Blas
Busy with departure and failed to get departure email out when connected but followed up later...
Leg 20b
Departure Time: 9:30 am local time Thursday April 7, 2022
Departure from: San Blas, México, Fuel Dock
2 souls aboard
Lawrence Kerver
Liz Barrish
Destination: Isla Isabel, México
Distance to Destination: approx 40nm
Estimated Duration: Approx 8-10 hours
Up around 7 or so, coffee, boat chores, walked a few steps to check out Marina Fonatur, preparing for San Blas departure
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Lawrence siphoning fuel into
Bluewater's tanks so he can re-fill
the portable tank |
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| Marina Fonatur - small (20 slips) |
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| Variety of boats |
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| Pongas with sweater covers on engines |
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| Chenche the fuel dock cat |
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| Lawrence's friend Chenche the cat |
Paid for 1 night on fuel dock 192 pesos (for 35 ft). Night watchman's name is also Lorenzo! The cat's name is Chenche. Fueled 12 gallons portable plastic tank.
Engine start 9:15am after getting fuel. Departure 9:30am.
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| Liz at the helm |
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| Lawrence on lookout on starboard pulpit |
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| BLTs for lunch, mmm.... |
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Fish boil on left; the white rock on right
is either Piedra Blanca or Isla del Rey |
Distress call heard on channel 16 at 11:38am. Lawrence noted our lat/long as 21:34:026 / 105:25:710 but we never heard more.
12:15pm 14.5 kts wind, Lawrence adjusted sails, 3.9kts to 4.3kts
1:15pm whale breach!
13 minutes of fluke splashes and fin slaps and breaches
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| 1:30pm Lounging on the bow and loving it |
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| 2pm, life is awesome! |
2pm coming off 60ft shelf into deeper water; wind a little off nose
3:09pm Isla Isabel in sight but doesn’t show in photos
5:30pm Island getting closer
Creepy unidentified skinny long snaky things visible in ocean but impossible to photograph
6:15pm started 2nd engine to arrive before dark, now going 6 kts
6:18pm Big 400 ft yacht departed from east anchorage, seen on radar
6:44pm getting very close
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3:15pm an ominous ring around the sun;
rain or storm coming soon |
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| 5:30pm Isla Isabel is finally visible in the photo |
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6:35pm Isla Isabel is getting
closer! (Actually, we are getting
closer to Isla Isabel!) |
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| 6:45pm approaching Isla Isabel from the south |
7:00 arrival after anchoring; Approx 10hrs (9:52)
Grilled burgers
Light in water
Fish illumacy
Anchor seems solid but hard to sleep soundly with obstacles in all directions (south - open sea, north - island, east - waves crashing on high cliffs nearby, west-swirling boil from underwater rock pyramid , close to surface at low tide)
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| Waves crashing nearby |
We are anchored! Video shows our view from east to west:
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| Sunset at Isla Isabel |
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Lawrence is watching bearing points and
range of motion after anchoring |
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| Liz is happy to be here! |
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| Burgers at sunset |
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| Night time is approaching |
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| Dinnner |
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| Around 8pm stars & moon are out |
Lawrence put out a bright light in the water to see sea life. A small tuna swam past and lots of creepy crawlies. Initially they looked like cute tiny fish. Up close in a bucket there were some translucent shrimp but also many brown wormy things.
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Lawrence on the swim step looking into a brightly lit bucket of
water teeming with sea life |
Post arrival Safe & Sound report (sent days later):
Motor-sailed the entire way with overnight watches after a relatively sleepless night in a roudy southern anchorage on Isla Isabel.
Friday April 8, 2022
Isla Isabel
Liz/Lawrence up randomly all night checking wind/swell/weather/anchorage. Liz up at 2:30am - different view from starboard cabin - got up to view our anchored location. Within 15 minutes, fishing vessel arrived, white w no lights on, came into and out of view. Eery but awesome.
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Boaters sleep lightly and fishermen are out at all hours.
At 2:45am this fishing panga arrived with no lights on |
Bluewater anchored solidly but Liz confused by direction of bow compared to wind vane, Lawrence has anchor alarm set.
Bioluminescence on water, shooting stars, boobies flying by and squawking, fish jumping/splashing, clouds low/scattered high, surf crashing against island rock walls. Very cool to be up.
Closer to shore, fishing vessel's nav lights (red/green) turned on. Saw fisherman sorting nets, fish and smoking, anchored? Shining flashlight on water
3am, fishing panga departed south with no lights - heard engine zoom away. Vessel with nav lights remaining. Flashlights in fishing village
3:30am radio chatter, Bluewater perspective back, see the float
3:45am dinghy departed, vessel with lights remains anchored, all stars gone clouded over
4am Liz back to bed
6am up, swung 180 on anchor, still dark
Vessel with nav lights still anchored nearby
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| 6am looking west. Fishing panga with nav lights anchored nearby; fishermen work hard |
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| 6am looking east |
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| 6:54am fishermen in pangas out |
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| Fishermen heading out |
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| 8:30am dinghy'd to shore |
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| Skipper Lawrence |
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| Dinghy on wheels |
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South anchorage fishing village
Isla Isabel |
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| Lawrence reading about snakes |
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Many birds and gorgeous views
Bluewater is visible behind us |
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| Bluewater is visible, anchored |
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| Views galore |
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| Blue-footed boobies and a baby |
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Lawrence heading back down
Las Monas visible beyond and around
corner from Bluewater |
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| Gorgeous beach |
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| Frigatebirds: Males have a red pouch; It's mating season |
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| Liz and volcanic rock |
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| Fishing gear in fishing village |
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| Bluewater from the beach |
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| We took the trail to Lago Cráter and Las Monas |
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| Unidentified tree fruit |
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| Lago Cráter |
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| Frigate baby? |
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| Looking north from east end of island |
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| Eastern side of island, Las Monas |
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| East anchorage |
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| Rocky Pinnacles known as Las Monas |
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| Blue-footed booby parents |
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| Shallow obstacle (rocks) |
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| Bluewater is anchored on the far left; we are in the dinghy |
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| Dinghy view looking east |
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| Bluewater anchored |
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| Fishermen waving |
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| 11:20am anchor up, departed south anchorage |
Leg 20c
Departure Time: 11:20am local time time Friday April 8, 2022
Departure from: Isla Isabel, México
Destination: Marina Mazatlan, México
Distance to Destination: Approx 93nm
Duration: 20.5 hours
Sailed thru Friday night; arrived Saturday morning
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| Departed Isla Isabel toward east anchorage |
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| 7 or 8 boats anchored in east anchorage |
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| Las Monas |
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| Looking back, Goodbye Isla Isabel (Galapagos of Mexico)! |
12:50pm Lawrence used his water maker and showed me the process.
3:30pm No land in sight in any direction
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| Fishing enroute |
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| Logbook before dinner |
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| Dinner and a sunset |
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| Gorgeous sunset on the open ocean |
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| Motor sailing |
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| It's nighttime now, around midnight |
...sailed through Friday night
Saturday April 9, 2022
Arrived Mazatlán
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| Just after midnight the moon was still out but the sky clouded over |
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| As the clouds rolled in and smothered the moon it looked like a mountain formed to portside (west) |
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| To the east, Mazatlán slowly came into view |
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| Mazatlán coming into view around 6:15am |
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| Around 6:45am it was daylight |
Bluewater and crew safe and sound in Mazatlán
Motor-sailed the entire way with overnight watches after a relatively sleepless night in a roudy southern anchorage on Isla Isabel.
Sunday April 10, 2022
Lawrence arranged my mandatory Covid test within 24 hours of my flight to the US and I was happy to test Negativo.
Monday April 11, 2022
Lawrence arranged a taxi for me from Marina Mazatlán to the Aeropuerto. My flights worked out perfectly from MZT to LAZ to SFO where Mark & Amanda picked me up.
THANKS LAWRENCE!!
Liz
